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Routes Sorted
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Big Fat Friend T 
Cowboys in Control T 
Cul-de-sac T 
Girl Next Door T 
Killer T 
Little Man in Suburbia T 
Manifest Destiny T 
Nomadic Alternative T 
R.I.L.F. T 
Red Lock in Suburbia T 
Unknown 5.10 T 

Cul-de-sac 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ian McEleney, Dale Apgar, BJ Cassell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 186
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Nov 5, 2015

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Ian, cruising the crux on the FA

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb a hand crack to a ledge about 20 feet up. Follow the crack as it briefly widens to OW/chimney (easier than it looks) before pinching down to tight hands through a bulge. More hand jamming above gets you to the chains in an alcove.

Location 

A couple minutes right of "Nomadic Alternative" and left of the big corner where Bloom claims "Honeypot" is. Chains are visible from below-left.

Protection 

BD C4's
1 - .5
2 - .75
1 - #1
2 - #2
2 - #3
1 - #6
A #5 could be substituted for the 6.


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