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Suburbia
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Fat Friend T 
Cowboys in Control T 
Cul-de-sac T 
Girl Next Door T 
Killer T 
Little Man in Suburbia T 
Manifest Destiny T 
Nomadic Alternative T 
R.I.L.F. T 
Red Lock in Suburbia T 
Unknown 5.10 T 

Cul-de-sac 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ian McEleney, Dale Apgar, BJ Cassell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Nov 5, 2015

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Ian, cruising the crux on the FA

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb a hand crack to a ledge about 20 feet up. Follow the crack as it briefly widens to OW/chimney (easier than it looks) before pinching down to tight hands through a bulge. More hand jamming above gets you to the chains in an alcove.

Location 

A couple minutes right of "Nomadic Alternative" and left of the big corner where Bloom claims "Honeypot" is. Chains are visible from below-left.

Protection 

BD C4's
1 - .5
2 - .75
1 - #1
2 - #2
2 - #3
1 - #6
A #5 could be substituted for the 6.


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