|Type:||Sport, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Eric Brand, Jeff Dopp, and John McCoy 1994|
|Submitted By:||Aron Quiter on Jul 3, 2003|
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|Comments on Cuidado!||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ben Philbrick
From: lucerne, switzerland
Mar 10, 2012
|i did this route with a buddy of mine, and it's my favorite at pinn to date! i got to lead pitches 1, 3, and 5, and i wouldn't have it any other way. the exposure on pitches 3 and 5 make the leading that much more spectacular! the bolts are good, and the rock is relatively solid for pinn climbing. take a camera for when you get to the top of the north tower of machete ridge!|
By Simon W
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 19, 2013
Awesome climb! The only long climb I have done at the Pinnacles (there aren't many) and this one is well worth the approach and decent! If you only climb the short rigs over at the East Side you are doing yourself a disservice, this is a full value route!
It definitely needs a bit more traffic to clean up, but it's not a complete choss pile either. The only hold I pulled off, looked suspect, and was right after clipping the 4th bolt on the 2nd pitch (right where the business lets up for a sec) and this resulted in a clean 10 footer.
If you forget to count the bolts on the traverse on the second pitch and get disoriented at the last one, the less mossy area to the right makes it obvious that it's time to pull the bulge.
Extend a lot on the 3rd pitch. Not just the 2 bolts mentioned in the book (those def need LONG runners, shorties don't do it.) I had horrendous rope drag at the top of the pitch, making the final moves feel pretty spicy.
4th pitch is solid 5.6 moss. If you are from the UK it will probably feel more like 5.4 moss. The rock is good.
Climb this route! :)
By David Cook
Dec 25, 2014
|If you need to rappel this route, bring two 60 meter ropes!|
By Phil Chan
Feb 19, 2016
|So the description of this route says that this route is CLOSED. Is this still the case? anyone know? Not sure when this was updated. Thanks.|
By Clint Cummins
From: Palo Alto, CA
May 2, 2016
This route closes sometimes for bird nesting between January 15 and August 1.
It is open as of 3/25/2016 - click on the "sensitive areas" link on this page:
There is a definite risk while doing this climb of knocking off rocks onto hikers on the trail far below.
So it would be wise to do this climb midweek, instead of on a weekend.
In this thread on the Mud 'N Crud forum, one of the guys who did the first ascent said it's loose in places, but they didn't knock anything bad onto the trail while putting up the first ascent:
By Max Rausch
From: Monterey, California
May 12, 2016
This has been on my to do list for years. Finally went and got'er dun today! Temps were in the 80's, and the whole route stayed shady all day mostly!
First pitch was as lame as I had thought it would be, so I wasn't too disappointed. Stepping out and moving up the first few bolts on the second pitch was the route crux in my opinion. Rock quality was decent. 3rd pitch was MONEY, and the exact reason why I've always wanted to do this route....For the airy exposure!
I would definitely recommend being a solid 5.11 (pinns) climber to be comfortable on this route.
By Tony L
Jan 24, 2017
|This route is not closed. I'm not sure where folks got that from. It is highly recommended to stay off this route on crowded weekends when there are hikers below (e.g. don't go up there Labor Day Saturday). You should be a strong 5.10+ leader, capable of staying on-route, not kicking off loose stuff.|