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Retrodeathblocking T 
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Zero Gravity S 

Cubicle Pukes and Cigars 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 2016 - Chris Koppl
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 144
Submitted By: Twinboas on Nov 25, 2016

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View looking up at pitch 1, an additional bolt now...

Description 

Pitch 1, 5.9 *** Stem up a short detached pillar, protected by a bolt, then step across to the main wall. Climb up the face, staying left until you are eventually forced to make a short rightward traverse. From there it is easier climbing to the anchors. 25m

Pitch 2, 5.8**** Either pull an immediate mantle before clipping a bolt or traverse up and around to the right on easier but runout terrain. Climb up until you reach a short bulge which you surmount with a cool horn and brilliant incut jugs. Fun climbing! 20m

Location 

Farthest left route on the south face of The Moon, just before you wrap around the corner into the gully.

Scramble up a short fourth class section and there is a belay bolt on a ledge before the start of the route. One or two pitches (can be climbed as a single long pitch with a 70m).

Two rappels bring you to the ground.

Not really accessible from the top of the formation, it would require super exposed down-soloing and route finding.

Protection 

Pitch 1: 7 bolts, chain anchor

Pitch 2: 6 bolts, chain anchor

Note: bolt counts are approximate, bring an extra draw or two.


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