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Cuarto Dinamo/Acoconetla

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Cuarto Dinamo/Acoconetla Rock Climbing 


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Location: 19.4333, -99.1333 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,301
Administrators: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Anagnostou on Dec 26, 2008  with updates from Alejandro and 1 more
Forecast:
Tuesday

83° | 52°
Wednesday

71° | 50°
Thursday

64° | 47°
Friday

73° | 47°
Saturday

73° | 50°
Sunday

77° | 51°
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View from big ledge.

Description 

The Fourth Dinamo area is home to some splitter (as well as some not-so-splitter) basalt cragging that would be classic 1-2 pitch stuff in yosemite valley.

It's mostly trad climbing, with some bolted routes and some bolted variations. Most anchors and rappels are fat bolted stations, and most things were set up to rap with a single rope. One small note: a number of the splitter cracks I played with here had wide sections, so it's worth lugging the big metal up the hill if you have it lying around.

Beta on the area, like most things in Mexico, is a little touch and go. You can often find lists of the routes on sites like xpmexico.com, but there is little beta to help you match up the cliffs with the paper.

The beta here should give you a solid reference point (and a couple lines for the ticklist). Other climbers will be an excellent resource, and sometimes you may find names of routes inscribed below the line, etc. Within 30 yards of the two routes I added (hormigas, marlon brando) are a handful of other splitter 5.8-5.11 climbs, both short and multipitch, and im told there is more good stuff close by if you wander further.

Getting There 

From the park entrance road, continue driving up canyon past many pullouts, stops, etc. Eventually the road turns into a bad dirt road (easily passable with 2WD) and after just 30 seconds on this park in the unpaved lot on your right. There is currently a sign for the Quarto Dinamo here, and a warning not to go climbing without the necessary gear. Expect to pay 10-15 pesos to park.

From the parking lot, walk up the road for five minutes, past a creek, until the road takes a sharp turn left. Instead of following the road, go right here at the hairpin and find a well beaten approach trail that soon rises rapidly into the thick scrub. Initially, follow the best looking trail at any intersections. After a few minutes, the trail passes next to a large pine whose trunk splits into an obvious three-pronged trunk system above. Just after this landmark is a tricky trail split at a smaller tree. Follow the obvious trail directly up for a denser dustier experience, or get on the main trail that initially wasn't obvious to me: step back down at that smaller tree and appear to contour on trail until it also rises steeply to the crags. This trail pops out near the base of some good crack climbing. 10-20 minutes from the car.

Climbing Season

For the Central Mexico area.

Weather station 0.3 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',15],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cuarto Dinamo/Acoconetla

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cuarto Dinamo/Acoconetla:
Las Hormigas   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   Lower Tier : 5 - Marlon
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Acrofobia 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13  North America : Mexico : ... : El Segundo Piso
Another classic testpiece at La Coconetla, not so tricky to protect as the neighboring La Paloma, but with a stiffer grade and a little more sustained. It was originally rated around 5.10c, before the bolts on the upper face were added to make it a direct line to the top (it used to join back to La Paloma after the 2nd crux).Start at the same finger crack of La Paloma and continue up the chimney until you stand at its top (1st crux). Once at the top, look a couple feet right and you'@SE...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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