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The Escoheag Boulder
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Arete Sit 
Backside Problem 
Boot Strap 
Crystallography 
Face Stand 
Nick's Mantle 
Nipple Projct 
Quartz Face 

Crystallography 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Max Monn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: MaxMonn on Apr 19, 2014

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During the FA

Description 

Start as for the Arete Sit and move right across the face with the quartz vein into Quartz Face with the crux being a tenuous bump/match on the small crimp located on the quartz vein. A variation for sure but a really nice sequence.

Location 

sit start on the blunt arete, go up and right to the top.

Protection 

pad or two


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By MaxMonn
From: Providence, RI
Apr 19, 2014

Video of the FA.


By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 23, 2017
rating: V7+ 7A+

Footwork made all the difference for me on this. I used a slightly different sequence than Max, putting my toe on a small bump about 6 inches below the better hold out on the face before popping out to the gaston, brought my left foot to the little scoopy hold on the arete, then dropped the right foot a bit to match the left hand under the right on the sidepull and reached out to the right arete. A really nice linkup
By MaxMonn
From: Providence, RI
Mar 26, 2017

Nice job Mark! From what I understand this is the second ascent (I've been waiting for someone to repeat this!!). Can I get you to weigh in on the grade? Its been a bit in limbo since it had only seen one ascent...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 27, 2017
rating: V7+ 7A+

I'm not the best grader since I haven't been able to climb consistently lately. I haven't climbed a V8 recently but I have been working some on a fingery project that I think is probably ~V9, so once I figured the foot beta the fingery crux seemed a lot easier on this than when I tried it a few years ago. I gassed out 4 times going for the easy pop to the jug at the top though. The grade seems about right. I was thinking maybe a 7, not quite as hard as the sit starts to Try Again. (Try Again is hard for the grade for me)
By MaxMonn
From: Providence, RI
Mar 27, 2017

Thanks Mark! I definitely agree that the hardest part of this climb is really dialing in some micro-beta that works for your own style and body type. I originally called it a 7, but received some friendly feedback that I might be sandbagging it. I'm psyched that you figured it out!
By Dana Seaton
Mar 27, 2017

it will be interesting to see someone who is taller repeat this, it is super scrunchy. classy link though.

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