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Crystal Wall Area
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Crystal Wall Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: FA 1980 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway, Ron Vardanega
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Come on, where are the holds?

Description 

A superb face climb on almost perfect granite that follows subtle features of the rock. Many will climb to the first anchor (double-rings) and rap off, although you can continue (tend to the right) on fun and easy runout climbing past one bolt to a double bolt belay station and then on to the top. It requires two ropes to rap off the first pitch. Note that it is easy to miss the last bolt before the first belay - its out right seemingly a little off route. If you want the same experience as the first ascensionists who were tired from hand drilling, don’t use the belay station and instead lay down flat on the upper pitch for more friction and belay from there.

Location 

To find the route, walk along the base trail until you see a blank, white granite wall that you have to climb up to reach. It is just past the large pinnacle leaning on the wall that has two bolts on it (Crystal Blue Persuasion). The climb to the bench where the climb starts is a low fifth class scramble.

The granite near the ground (perhaps where snow piles up) is a little looser than the granite just 20 feet up on the dome. Since this climb starts up high, the granite can only be described as immaculate, the whole way. Super fun.

On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 2.

Protection 

Typically all bolts. There is a tiny roof/flake between bolts two and three were you can optionally put a 1/4" to 1/2" cam.

This was done originally in the 1980's and no bolts were added - so this is a little "old school" and bold. It is not way runout, but there may be some sense of relief as you reach each bolt.


Photos of Crystal Wall Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlie Downs enjoying the route
Charlie Downs enjoying the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Freshly rebolted, 2015
Freshly rebolted, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Brent Malicote on Crystal Wall
Brent Malicote on Crystal Wall

Comments on Crystal Wall Route Add Comment
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By Alex Kirkpatrick
3 days ago
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Sweet route! And yep missed the last bolt. It is about 10' up and to the right. I was expecting it to be higher.
Good test for the head.

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