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Better than Watching TV (previously submitted as Fantastic Voyage) S 
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Crystal Method T 
Down on the Pharm S 
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Unknown/(Bolt Dependence?) S 

Crystal Method 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 175'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Bryan Beavers, '05
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 915
Submitted By: beavs on May 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Not your typical clip-up to say the least, and possibly deserving of an "R" rating. There is potential for big falls in places, but I wouldn't say it's super dangerous. There is just enough protection and falls should generally be clean air (on my 1st attempt leading it a hold broke when I was topping out and I sailed pretty far without ever hitting the wall - it wouldn't have been so bad except that then I had to lead it again!).

This 175' pitch goes straight to the top of the wall with very little wandering. The crux is immediately after the 1st bolt (about 30' up where the seam disappears) and gradually eases as the seam reappears. Gear can be found just a few feet above the bolt, but it's tricky to place and the stances are insecure - just punching it to the easier ground was the ticket for me. There is another slightly easier crux up high as you slab your way through the last couple of bolts. It is easy to climb right to the 1st anchor on Fantastic Voyage to split the route into 2 pitches or avoid the top half if desired.

Location 

Left of Balaam and right of Silver Girl. 1st bolt is visible from the ground if you look closely (about 30' up with a reddish-colored camo hanger). 2 60m ropes required to rap from the top.

Protection 

A total of 5 bolts and pro up to about 2". The gear is basically all thin so bring a good assortment of nuts & TCUs. The top third of the route has no pro other than the widely spaced bolts. Shares a chain anchor at the top of the wall with Fantastic Voyage (the chains are painted black, look to the right as you top out).

My opinion is that enough natural pro can be found on this line to make it a mixed route. I took a minimalist approach with the bolts and tried to place just enough to make it sane to lead. I'm sure some would disagree with this approach, so let the thread begin.


Comments on Crystal Method Add Comment
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By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 21, 2009

I'm down. I'll bring some rack next time and give it a whirl.
By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 20, 2010

I only top roped this self belay, so I can't make real definitive statements. However, I can almost guarantee a fall immediately after either of the cruxes would be nasty, especially the lower crux right off the ledge. I have led Fantastic Voyage, and feel like this route will be a step up. Stout. I wonder how many leads this has had? The climbing is great.

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