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Crystal Meth 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Greg Barnes, Bryan Law, Joe Denicola, August 2008
Page Views: 1,062
Submitted By: butters on Sep 9, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Drug Dome - white slab on far right (view from The...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1: Work your way up a fun flake system to a single bolt about 25ft up. From there work your way up and right following another fun flake over the roll to a 2 bolt anchor. 80ft 5.8

Pitch 2: Clip a bolt and climb up and left and start to move right to your 2nd bolt. Then up to a right facing flake system for about 70 ft to another 2 bolt anchor. 5.8 110ft. (careful.. the top of the flake is kinda loose.)

Pitch 3: Clip a bolt and climb up and right passing a loose block on its right side. up to a roof. Equalize some small gear and climb up using small knobs for feet and some crimps on the edge of the roof. Once passed look for a bolt on your left side. Step across and clip the bolt and finish with a fun mantle and then easy slab climbing for 30ft to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 4: 4th class for 50yards to the trees if you want to access the Hobbit Book or other routes on Mariuolumne Dome.

Location 

Right of the big black streak. Look for a single bolt about 25ft up. Fun link up to the Hobbit Book up above. (left of Euro Trash)

Protection 

2 draws. Gear: mirco nuts and cams to 3 inches.
2 bolt anchors with rap rings. The first 3 pitches can be rappelled with a single 70m.


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By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Aug 2, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

This climb makes a good link up with Hobbit book. Three pitches of nice face climbing, each with a solid 5.8 crux. Nice bolted belays. The route finding is a little tricky, when looking for the finish on P3 go left through the overhangs. I would certainly give it an PG-R rating.
By Anouk Erni
From: Portland, OR
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

This route does not deserve 3 stars (more like 1.5), but it is a good alternative to link up to Hobbit Book instead of hiking up the longer approach. The cracks were dirty and crystals were breaking off left and right. Be careful of loose rock. Worth doing once. Obviously this route is not climbed a lot.

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