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Crystal Catch 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Scott Kimball, Harry Kent 1976*
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 21, 2003

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Hey, I think this is a variation of P2. The descri...

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Crystal Catch is a good route to end your day at Checkerboard. A couple of hard moves low down followed by runout knob climbing at about 5.7. The runout can be eased by moving right to get gear (use very long slings). At the top of the first pitch are slings to rappel from. There is a second pitch, but I've never done it. My 1986 Scott Kimball guide says this of P2: "Proceed up sharp crystals to Surrey Ledge. Choose a groove which is second from the left and take it to the top."

  • My Kimball guide says of the first ascent: "Description Kimball, Harry Kent; 1976." I assume this means first ascent unknown; first known ascent, Kimball, Kent. Maybe Scott can clear this up.


Light standard rack. Long slings, especially if you expect to place gear on the right on the upper part of the first pitch.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Looking for the last gear before the crystal runou...
Looking for the last gear before the crystal runou...

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By S. Kimball
Jul 3, 2004

FA: Harry Kent, S.Kimball 1976. Way good. Pitch #1 up the crystal band is not run out??, trucker Tricam or sideways stopper. Pitch #2 killer 5.7/8 stemming all good pro and clean.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 23, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The only climbing I thought was moderately runout (more than 10' above gear) was pretty easy. Maybe 5.5 or 5.6 . The gear was a little tricky in spots though.

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