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Crystal Cat 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kevin and Laura Capps
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,253
Submitted By: Kevin Capps on Mar 11, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Bill about at the roof.

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  • Description 

    This is a great new climb for one of the most classic walls in the canyon. This route goes up the small, right-facing corner on the left side of the mini-roof about halfway up the wall.

    Location 

    This is just left of MacCavity.

    Protection 

    13 bolts + an anchor.


    Photos of Crystal Cat Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brian near the bottom.
    Brian near the bottom.

    Comments on Crystal Cat Add Comment
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    By Mary Simonds
    Mar 15, 2016

    Great route! I would agree with the 5.9 rating overall; however, there was a tricky blank section from about the 2nd to last bolt to the anchors that I would rate a little harder, 10a/bish? Really enjoyable climb!
    By Jeremy C
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 4, 2016
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Pretty fun! We had TR'd this line off other anchors before. It was cool to see that it got bolted. I thought the last 12 ft of the route seemed significantly more difficult than the rest. I wouldn't be surprised if you see a lot of climbers bailing right to the MacCavity anchors.
    By BIG FUN
    From: Denver, Colorado
    Apr 24, 2016
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    Well-protected and fun, but the crux is definitely around 2nd to last and last bolt. All the lichen at the top doesn't make it any easier. Not the best slab climber to begin with; ended up finishing off on MacCavity. Easy to transition to, just had to back clean one draw.
    By Bobby Wilson
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 30, 2016
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Probably the hardest grade I've climbed TR even though I had to bail at the crux. Next time I'll get up there quick and beat the pump to see if I can work out those sparse slab moves.
    By Chip Loomis
    Jun 2, 2016
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Could have been one of the best 5.7/5.8s in the canyon. The high placement of the anchor causes a short section of 5.9+ and changes the essence of the climb.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jun 17, 2016
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I agree that the crux is at the top. I think it is most difficult by the last bolt. The area by the 2nd to last bolt is more difficult than below, but it is not as hard as the crux. The route has 13 bolts.
    By Dave Clark 5.10
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 21, 2016
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Good route for 5.7 climbers with a 5.9 rope gun to get a rope up the last 15 ft. Food for thought: a second bolt and rap anchors at bolt 11 would offer a nice 30m route option at 5.7 for all the beginners at Cat Slab.

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