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Crystal Wall Area
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Arch Traverse S 
Crystal Blue Persuasion S 
Crystal Chute T 
Crystal Wall Route S 
Friction Affliction T 
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Independence Wall S 
More Affliction T 
Red Dawn S 

Crystal Blue Persuasion 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: FA 1980 Ron Vardanega, Don Garett. Historical Note: This entire climb was first done with two 1/4" bolts in 1980. Ron Vardanega and Ney Grant rebolted
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Submitted By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016

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FA Ron Vardanega rebolting his old route.

Description 

This is a great 5.7 face climb on the steep main wall up knobs, flakes and sweet little pockets. It gets runout as it progresses but it gets easier too. Start the climb from the ground and clip two easy bolts on the way to the top of the pinnacle. From the top of the pinnacle step across onto the steep 5.7 main wall. Note that it is 70 meters (a bit more actually) from the ground to the two-bolt belay. Remember to tie in or tie a back up knot. As the lead climber reaches the belay the belayer can step up and left to give more rope. If you are using a shorter rope then stop and belay at the top of the pinnacle.

Location 

To find the climb hike the base trail until you have to climb up between two boulders. Take a hard right at the top of the boulders and the climb starts there.


On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 3.

Protection 

Typically all bolts. There is a horizontal crack between bolts one and two you can put a 1" cam into, or skip it.


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By GizzardJones
From: Rancho Cordova,CA
Jul 21, 2016

Loved this old school runout climb. Careful rapping off down the direct line, next time I'd suggest rapping climber right to avoid the top of the Pinnacle and getting the rope caught (like we did)

Had to re-lead back up to get rope uncaught, then down-climbed to a bolt to lower off. If anyone sees a blue biner it was because of that. Enjoy

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