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Crystal Wall Area
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Arch Traverse S 
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Crystal Blue Persuasion 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: FA 1980 Ron Vardanega, Don Garett. Historical Note: This entire climb was first done with two 1/4" bolts in 1980. Ron Vardanega and Ney Grant rebolted
Page Views: 431
Submitted By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016

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FA Ron Vardanega rebolting his old route.

Description 

This is a great 5.7 face climb on the steep main wall up knobs, flakes and sweet little pockets. It gets runout as it progresses but it gets easier too. Start the climb from the ground and clip two easy bolts on the way to the top of the pinnacle. From the top of the pinnacle step across onto the steep 5.7 main wall. Note that it is 70 meters (a bit more actually) from the ground to the two-bolt belay. Remember to tie in or tie a back up knot. As the lead climber reaches the belay the belayer can step up and left to give more rope. If you are using a shorter rope then stop and belay at the top of the pinnacle.

Location 

To find the climb hike the base trail until you have to climb up between two boulders. Take a hard right at the top of the boulders and the climb starts there.


On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 3.

Protection 

Typically all bolts. There is a horizontal crack between bolts one and two you can put a 1" cam into, or skip it.


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By GizzardJones
From: Rancho Cordova,CA
Jul 21, 2016

Loved this old school runout climb. Careful rapping off down the direct line, next time I'd suggest rapping climber right to avoid the top of the Pinnacle and getting the rope caught (like we did)

Had to re-lead back up to get rope uncaught, then down-climbed to a bolt to lower off. If anyone sees a blue biner it was because of that. Enjoy
By evan freeman
Aug 20, 2017

This is indeed an old-school Tuolumne-style face climb. There are bolts when it's harder, but huge runouts when it's easy. There are no bolts on the second pitch...

The first pitch is about 73-74M, however. I led it on a brand new Mammut 70m rope, and trailed a Beal 70. My belayer had to simul about 10' up to get me to the chains, and we tied in close. I can't really see why they would put the anchor just out of reach of even a 70, since it could just as easily been 5M below...

We rapped the rap line about 40' to the right, and it was fine. Two smooth 65+M raps to the flat ground & no rope snag drama.

Thanks for the route!
By Ney Grant
From: Pollock Pines, CA
Aug 22, 2017

Evan,

This is how that happened (long pitch). As of 2015 this was an unnamed climb with two rusty 1/4" bolts on the whole thing. No belay stations, etc. Probably had seen very few ascents, ever. The FA Ron Vardanega and I rebolted and added bolts top-down (no way were either of us going to climb it with the old bolts).

Where one of the original bolts was we added another bolt for a belay station, and estimated that it would probably make it to the ground. It did on rappel with rope stretch, but as we found out later, not when going up.

So now those two bolts need to be moved, not an insignificant task, or perhaps an intermediate belay station added. Maybe some day...

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