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Cryptic Right 

Cryptic Right 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
Page Views: 102
Submitted By: Chris Beh on Nov 28, 2012

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It's all about the left foot when pulling on.

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This problem is a very fun variation to Cryptic Magician which starts to the right of that V7.

Start standing on a lower strata of rock with two good crimps for the hands on the slab below the little roof, a high right hold and a lower one for the left. Throw a high left foot onto a small edge, and with your hands still on the starting holds, rock onto your left foot. Now you can reach the obvious, chalked up flake at the lip of the roof. Bump past the good hold with your left to a small hold over the lip. At this point, you have joined the V7 and the finish is the same.

I thought the hardest move was grabbing with the left hand to the big, slanting hold at the end of the business. The topout above this good grip is a bit slopey, insecure, and requires good foot work to finish. It's wise to climb around the back and check if the finish needs the pine needles brushed off.

Protection's a boulder problem.

Photos of Cryptic Right Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux move, getting the left hand up to the finishi...
Crux move, getting the left hand up to the finishi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The starting holds to Cryptic Right.
The starting holds to Cryptic Right.

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By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 19, 2013

It never occurred to me or anyone else I have spent time at Cryptic Magician with to come into it from the right and a whole new set of starting holds. Is it possible this was an FA or did someone else show it to you?
By Chris Beh
Jan 19, 2013

Hey Chip, I don't know that it was an FA. Owen Silver and I were over at Cryptic in July '12, and since we couldn't get off the ground off left, he started pulling on just where the photo shows. The starting holds seemed like they had been touched before. We didn't get it then, but he went back solo and sent this variation shortly after. I got it the day I took these photos of Owen in November. It's a fun and much easier way to get up the basic line...almost a completely different problem at easy V5. I checked your guide before I posted it...which is an awesome resource, BTW, thanks.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jan 19, 2013

I was interested in a lower start on the arete and then moving into this but abandoned it as too silly :)

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