REI Community
Lower Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buried Alive S 
Cryptic Funk S 
Dog Heaven  S 
Evil S 
Evil Twin S 
Hells Bells S 
Heucos from Hades S 
La Santa Muerta S 
La Santa Muerta Ext S 
Undertaker S 
Whited Sepulchre S 
Wicked S 

Cryptic Funk 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Hyrum Colier & Gordon Larsen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: Gordon Larsen on Jul 11, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Cryptic Funk (yellow) on lower tier. Shares anchor...

Description 

A new line as of 7/10/2017. Shares the anchor with Hueco and is not quite as difficult. Crux is at the small roof about half way up the route.

Location 

Immediately right of Huecos from Hades

Protection 

8 bolts to shared chain anchor


Comments on Cryptic Funk Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
Jul 20, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
All good suggestions. We did consider placing a separate anchor and may still do so. The chains at the anchor of Hades are a bit skimpy I must agree. Those are compliments of John Tully who began the development of the Lower Tier years ago. I gave him some grief about them already in a friendly way. So, there is still some work do do to make things better. (1) Replace the chains on the anchor of Hades, to something beefier (2) Establish an independent anchor for Cryptic Funk (3) Finish cleaning the bottom section of Funk. (4) Consider extending Hades further up the wall. Just takes some time, money and effort.
By Will Beuttell
From: Cedar City, UT
Jul 14, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Great job putting this line up. The bolt spacing is great minus the small runout section. A little more care could be made at removing the choss but overall, a great climb that should clean up over time. Wearing a helmet is a good idea for the belayer and climber.
Why not add a separate anchor?
By karl vochatzer
From: Cedar City, UT
Jul 15, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The FAers have a good eye for the line that was missed for so many years. As Will wrote, well done on the bolt placements. I encourage you both as the route developers to stress test the line more. I second the motion that an independent set of anchors are warranted as you stand directly above the last bolt. Will and I will likely replace the thin gauge chain on Hades in part because it is actually only one point of failure due to the 2 quick links being threaded through by the chain and not actually attached into the chain links, which are too small to get them through. Three stars when the route is stress tested and cleaned up a bit more.
By karl vochatzer
From: Cedar City, UT
6 days ago
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Appreciate the nice response from you Gordon and that you took our feedback constructively. Please feel free to reach out to either Will or me for any assistance on equipping hardware there.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About