Cryin' in the Rain
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BETA PHOTO: The start of Cryin' in the Rain (5.9), Mosaic Rock...
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Ascend the left-leaning crack, past two small roofs, to gain a low-angle left-trending ramp. At this point, the route can take two variations, apparently.
1.) The old Taos II & III guidebooks indicate that the route continues up to the left, to a bunch of chickenheads and then up. (We didn't go this way, so it's not clear how far left you have to go. Maybe you have to cross through Holthouse in a Haulbag and Holthouse to Hell
? I have no idea if there is 5.9 territory over there.)
2.) Jackson's 2006 guidebook indicates that you are to finish Cryin' in the Rain by merging into the top part of Holthouse in a Haulbag. We went straight up this way, up a lieback flake and past one bolt. But I thought this was way harder than 5.9 (maybe 10.b-ish?), and sure enough, after the fact, I read in the 1991 Taos III guidebook that this finish is described as a 5.10 variation. So, be aware.
Located on the south face of Mosaic Rock, just left of the huge detached flake that marks the start of Clean Green Dream
. Start up a left-leaning crack behind the tree.
At the top of the route, you reach a ledge covered in oak brush. From there, climb or scramble wherever you see fit to the summit; walk off the east side.
Standard TP rack of single cams & nuts. A #3 C4 can be useful on the low-angle ramp.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jul 13, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For a TP 5.9, this climb passes into some unlikely terrain and has some adventure to it.
Regarding the various finishes, after you gain the obvious left-trending ramp ledge 60' up, it looks like there are 3 options (R->L, in the order you reach them as you continue up and left).
a) the flake to bolt, shared with the top of Holthouse in a Haulbag, this is what's described in the current guidebook, option (2) above, best for rope drag, might feel harder than 5.9
b) slab to a newer bolt (this is the last bolt on Nowhere/In Step), this looks hardest (but I haven't climbed it)
c) keep going left as on option (1) above, to a short finger crack and chicken headed face that climbs directly to the ledge with trees- this is the top of Holthouse to Hell and is 5.9 with some runout (probably easiest option)