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Alchemy T 
Cry for Merlin T,S 
Crybaby S 
Excalibur T 
Seventh Sojourn T 
Sword In The Stone (Clarent), The T 
Watchman's Secret T 
Watchman's Secret, Variation  T 

Cry for Merlin 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Bryan Pletta
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Descend via the standard rap route as for Excalibur (this will be a hard swing to the right if you start at the crux pitch). Belay at the right set of anchor bolts (the left set being for Excal) and ramble up the easy start (5.8) to where the business starts on the slab. Awkward and balancy moves take you out the crux through a well protected, slightly overhanging, sharp arete. Pass up the last bolts before the belay to avoid some serious rope drag, or take double ropes to not have to worry about it and just clip the bolts.
The exit pitch is trad 5.9 that pros well and is an easy finish.


Located just to the right of Excal, this is the obvious arete with the best position of all the climbs on this wall.


set of draws, trad rack up to #2 or Camalot. 2 x 50m doubles is great.

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By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Nov 30, 2007

Glad to see this route on the database, this is one I have wanted to do for a while.

Why the PG13 rating? Are there any sections of hard climbing where you don't want to fall?

Is the direct finish to this crybaby or something? 13a?
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 30, 2007
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The PG section is right off the anchor and traversing to the first bolt. Not a good place to fall and only about 5.10+ or so but, committing moves and an ugly swinging fall onto your belayer are enough incentive to not come off.

I haven't been back on the route since the 5.13 variation was established and the new final pitch to the top.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 3, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

Hey Marc, I did actually add a bolt or two that now stays on the face and goes at 5.12+, there is a little jesery involved to make it that grade, 5.13- if you are as hard headed as I was on the FA.

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