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Crunchy Cat 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: Ben Townsend on Dec 4, 2013

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is listed in Supertopo as This Ain't No Disco, but according to Handren, that route is around right on the other side of the pillar. Other than that, the Supertopo information seems pretty accurate.

Diagonal up left across an easy apron, pull an overhang on somewhat sketchy rock, then wander up varnish to the thread anchor of When a Stranger Calls. No fixed protection.

Unfortunately, the rock quality at the crux is poor. The varnished face above is nicer, but never really makes up for the lackluster start.

Location 

East face of Mescalito, immediately right of When a Stranger Calls, starting from an obvious ledge just right of the bushes.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3". Threaded horns for the belay/rappel anchor at the top; consider bringing extra cord or webbing. Two-rope rappel.


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By Cunning Linguist
Dec 23, 2013

I thought this route was fine when I did it, just a hell of a lot of burnt webbing up there. Supertopo does indeed have this route confused with Disco. The climbing couldn't be more different...

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