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Cruising for Bulgar 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: T. Hogan & R. Rositer, 1981
Season: Faces SW
Page Views: 552
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The crack through the center of the bulging buttre...

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  • Description 

    Once you reach Sobo, the Southwest facing prow is obvious. Cruising for Bulgar is a stellar crack system that ascends the center of the prow. Every size imaginable comes at some point along this steep and sustained route. Fingers, hands, fists and even a wide move or two.

    Begin on thin moves near the ground, getting into a crack and flake system for a few feet, then up into the good crack, which is mellow for a short time, until an obvious crux (1.5"-2.0" cam or brown tricam) stops you cold. Beat that crux and then fight through the next 20' of sustained effort to reach the low angle moves. Make low angle moves to get to the summit ledge and belay.

    The summit belay is most easily set on a few stoppers and 3" cams - so take an extra of that size.

    The crack is very rough and will leave the hands marked and sore if you don't tape up. Although I do not generally tape, I wish I had both times I've done this route, and I strongly encourage you to do so too.


    A set of TCUs, cams up to a #4 friend, and a set of stoppers.

    Photos of Cruising for Bulgar Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb leading the crux of Cruising For Bulgar ...
    Tony Bubb leading the crux of Cruising For Bulgar ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb leading Cruising For Bulgar (Sobo, Eldo)...
    Tony Bubb leading Cruising For Bulgar (Sobo, Eldo)...

    Comments on Cruising for Bulgar Add Comment
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    By Peter Spindloe
    From: North Vancouver, BC
    Feb 26, 2002

    Although the guidebook gives this climb 5.10a, it really deserves the 5.10b/c that Tony gives it. Tape is very definitely recommended!
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 26, 2002

    I remember this crack being somewhat rotten, and I didn't think this route was as nice as "Good Cleavage". One star?
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Feb 26, 2002

    The texture is certainly aggressive, but the rock is pretty good after the first few feet. Maybe I liked the climb because it was a crack-climb and had some relatively difficult jamming and cruxes. I honestly thought both Crusing For Bulgar and Good Cleavage were great pitches, but too short to really call 3-star routes. It's always debatable I guess.

    Tape would definately add to the enjoyment factor, or rather the absence of it subtracts from the potential. I have some scrapes from the acsent & generally speaking I don't have any such problem.

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