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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,718
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Sep 5, 2012

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Given a 5.7 grade in Tim Olson's Portland Rock Climbs book, this route is thin and intimidating even for the 5.8 grade. Start up a slabby face with a shallow crack near a tall oak tree, just before heading around/up to the start of South East Corner. Utilize face holds while finagling small gear into the pods in the crack, continuing upwards through a very thin section of the crack (long reach helpful). Hit a roof, step left with good gear, then continue up through a few more hand-foot matches to grassy ledges. Traverse right to the Pitch 2 anchors of South East Corner. Continue up via this route or rap from two fat Metolius bolts.


Past the start for Young Warriors, before the start for Little Wing and South East Corner. At a belay platform below a big oak tree.


Gear to 2" (emphasis in smaller stuff!)

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By Steve Wolford
May 27, 2013

This is one of the classic pitches at Beacon Rock. Solid but well spaced gear, interesting and varied movement, and it allows a shortcut to the SE corner if someone else has gotten to the start before you. Well worth taking a whirl on. Don't forget the stoppers for the first half!
By Shad Williams
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 20, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climb. Thin crack takes small nuts better than cams. Traverse move under the roof can be protected with good cams or slinging a block with a double length sling.
By Billcoe
Jul 25, 2015

Did this yesterday and logged in to see the grade. Tim lists it as 5.7 in his book but it's 5.9. Or I'm old:-) Could be both. On the block that is noted in the comment above, I used that on the FA of Couchmaster, but it has been pointed out to me that it is probably a detached block that will come off at some point, so I'd pass by even if you want to use it for pro. At least don't yard on it or fall if you do stick a piece in there.

This route got done after I'd ground up led/wirebrushed what Jim named Couchmaster, the 5.10 crack just to the right that I did with Gary Rall and Jim Opdycke in early May 1985. As we were climbing Couchmaster, Jim had spied a mossy line just to the left and later went up and dug it out. It turned into this superb route which I named Cruisemaster after we did it. Dennis Hemminger led it, I seconded and Jim followed. Jim changed the name a year or 2 later to Crusin' as there were too many "master" climbing names -ie, Rockmaster, Couchmaster....and they were physically all close together. Still a very enjoyable route and it does take perfect nuts as said upthread by Steve. 5.9:-)
By Mike Zasadzien
Aug 17, 2015

Great places for nuts. If not, it's absolutely terrifying. Because I didn't have them[thanks climbing partner...], I feel like its a very sustained route that's stiff for the "5.7" grade. Exciting and fun, but definitely not a beginner climb.

Definitely awesome to hop the line to SE corner though :D

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