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4. The Perfect Wave Slab
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Bonsai T 
Bubbles T 
Crazy Woman Driver T 
Cruise Control T 
First Wave, The T 
Friday's Friend T 
Perfect Wave T 
Petroglyph, The T 
Silver Surfer T 
Super Slab T 
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 
Tsunami T 

Cruise Control 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 215'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ed Webster, Maria Hannus, May 1995
Page Views: 186
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Route Photo - Cruise Control and Detail of climbs ...

Description 

Just the most wonderful, clean, white rock with excellent protection....although it was not always this way. The first time I climbed it the original drilled-on-the-lead 1/4" bolts were the pro! Soon these were replaced with 3/8". I gave this an additional star over the "consensus 3-star" Perfect Wave because there's nearly twice as long a section of climbing-at-the- grade.

Approach - Same as for Tsunami. [From where the climber's path reaches the slab, walk right along the base about 35-40 ft. Go uphill to a dirt ledge below a brownish 12ft-high slab. Scramble or belay-climb up the 12 ft face to a large ledge with a couple of pine trees, one of which is knocked over.]

This can be led in one long pitch with a 70M rope. Those with 60M ropes have two choices: 1) Belay about 50-60 ft up where two solution pocket holes take large & med. cams. The holes are located just beyond the left end of the 'overlap-flake' that arches from the Super-Slab/Crazy Woman Driver belay; this is about 10 ft below, and slightly right of, "Cruise's" first bolt. [see "Tsunami Ledge" Route Photo] or... 2) Both leader and second symul-climb at the end. Both are on fairly easy rock.

P1 - From the right end of the Tsunami ledge climb up and slightly left (see Tsunami Ledge topo) passing by the two holes about 50-60 feet up (optional "60 meter belay, see above.) Clip the first bolt and climb straight up past two more to the trees. 215 ft 5.7+

Descend - There is now (2015) a rap station on a tree that allows for a double-60M-rope rap back to the "Tsunami" tree ledge; double 70M's get you all the way to the ground.

Alternately, move left 40 +/- feet to the regular rap route via the Silver Surfer Rap line. ( 3 single rope raps, or 1 single and one double-rope rap)

Protection 

Normal rack


Photos of Cruise Control Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tsunami Ledge Topo
BETA PHOTO: Tsunami Ledge Topo

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