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Cruella de Vil 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jen Payne, Vaino Kodas 2008
Page Views: 286
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Mar 20, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the route.

Description 

A fun route that is harder than it looks. There are two sets of anchors - getting to the first set is the crux, and the best climbing is on this first pitch. But you can easily link both without much rope drag.

The climb begins with a few moves on jugs, bringing you up to a tricky blank section in the wall around bolt three. Resist the temptation to go right at this point (it will be difficult to get back to the bolt line if you do) and commit to a improbable traverse out the arete on the left (crux?). From here, the route stays on or near the left arete with fun and interesting moves all the way to the first set of anchors.

The business is over but if you feel like more climbing, there is a short second pitch, more of an extension than anything. This is mostly 5.8 or 5.9 slabbing up and noticeably left on a ramp, with one slightly harder move right at the anchors.

Location 

The first sport climb to left of "Ojo". Look for a well bolted arete and face climb with some green lichen on the rock. The arete is on the left side of the face.

Protection 

Tightly bolted.
7 bolts to get to the first anchors, with 7 more to get to the second set.


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