REI Community
Chimney Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
8th and Main T 
Amanecer S 
Ankle's Away T 
Another Roadside Attraction T 
Boardwalk T 
Centerpiece T 
Coherent Excitation T 
Copperhead 5 T 
Crows Nest T 
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 
George's Buttress T,TR 
Georges Peach T,S 
Jungle Gym T 
Mistaken Identity T 
New Year's Eve T 
Perfect Peter T 
Ratline S 
Shriveled Penis T 
Single Lens Reflex T 
Standard Route T 
Stonedmasters T 
Stoner's Boner T 
Straight Arrow T 
Stripper T 
Tomorrow is Today S 
Unstrung Harp T 
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 
Veranda T 
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 

Crows Nest 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: O'kelly, Officer; 1976
Page Views: 3,919
Submitted By: eMurdock on Sep 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chris near the start of Crows Nest


This route is located on the far right end of Chimney Rock, just right of the steep, bolted Ratline (5.11). Climb the left leaning, large dihedral for two pitches. Cruxy moves, and great protection, are encountered on both pitches. A two bolt anchor at the top of Ratline marks the top of the first pitch. A savvy leader can easily link the first two pitches. This is desirable as the first belay is hanging while the second belay is one of the best on the mountain (and also bolted). The last pitch goes up a short offwidth and steep handcrack. Walk off to the right. If you like this one, make sure you do Cripple Creek on the Pharoah.


Standard rack and one 4" piece if you want it for the offwidth on the last pitch

Photos of Crows Nest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crow's Nest
BETA PHOTO: Crow's Nest
Rock Climbing Photo: Meghan, heads up Crows Nest.
Meghan, heads up Crows Nest.
Rock Climbing Photo: The wide crack on pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: The wide crack on pitch 3

Comments on Crows Nest Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Sep 14, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I've only done the first pitch of the route. I thought the quality of the climbing was some of the best on the mountain. I also like the fact that there were great stances to place gear as frequently as I like.
By afer
Dec 2, 2004

Do pitch 1 & 2 together for a nice long stiff lead. Makes for an excellent climb that way.
By Jimbo
Jun 11, 2007

It's not a squeeze flake. It's two lay back moves and your grabbing the top. Maybe 5.9 this way. try it you'll like it. Stay out of the squeeze!!
By Paul Davidson
Sep 9, 2008

Like Rick says, doing P1 and 2 together make for a stellar climb.

For the local aficionado who's done this N times already, try the Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat exit up at the top. That's the obvious set of left trending roofs. I recall that being fun and exhilarating.

However, I wouldn't call it the best route at Chimney.
For my money, that goes to EAJiH. That's the left to right girdle of the cliff. But then, I like girdle climbs. There's never a dull moment for the leader or the second.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jun 17, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There's some rotten rock near the start of both the first and second pitches so watch where you protect.

A #5 would protect the offwidth at the bottom of the third pitch better than a #4.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Among my favorite routes at Mt. Lemmon. Lots of undercling, lie-off stemming moves that go for 100+ feet. I found that two sets of cams from about 0.4 to 3 inches with one #4, a few wires and lots of long slings to reduce any drag made it very safe and well protected. It is really one pitch - why stop after 60 feet and hang when it is just similar climbing to the top and you can lower straight to the ground from there on one rope? Double your fun and do the entire pitch skipping the sport belay for the 5.11 climb to the left.
By Dj telle
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jul 24, 2014

LINK the pitches for a nice long climb!
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 27, 2016

Great climb! I can't believe it's taken me this long to get on it. I linked all three pitches, and rope drag wasn't an issue at all. Extend long and try not to place directly beneath the roofs.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About