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Physical Crag
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Bacon and Ergs T,TR 
Bacon Bits T 
Crown Joules T,TR 
Dyne and Dash T,TR 
EarthQuark T,TR 
Ergonomics T 
Fission Chips T,TR 
Ohm on the Range T 
Pole Vault T 
Watts For Dinner T 
Watts Left Over T 

Crown Joules 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Alec Sharp, 1981(?)
Page Views: 579
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 3, 2004

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Crown Joules.

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  • Description 

    This route also lies on the upper right hand side of Physical Crag. To locate it, first find the impressive OW, Bacon and Ergs. To the left, perhaps 10-15 meters further there is a small, overhanging, shallow, left-facing corner system that starts with a wide slot for a meter, then sewn-up closed to RP crack. From the ground the crack appears to be unprotectable, but as it turns out, it would probably take two VERY GOOD small nuts. These would protect the awkward and thin, powerful crux. Climb up this and transition to a straight in crack just as the angle relaxes to vertical, and then proceed upward for 8 more meters of open book climbing in a left-facing system, protected on thin nuts again. Rap from the anchor.

    Protection 

    Either TR it from the newly replaced webbing anchor (totally solid) or lead it.

    The lead should probably include a standard set of stoppers and TCUs plus a wide cam for the initial slot and a few brass nuts for the crux. Gear placements will probably be strenuous.


    Photos of Crown Joules Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony off-widthing the slot. This can also be layba...
    Tony off-widthing the slot. This can also be layba...

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