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Crowbar Cowboy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Deaun Schovajsa and Dave Gottenborg, circa 1994.
Page Views: 1,602
Submitted By: David Hous on Mar 10, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: The route, shown by the rope.


This route follows the blocky arete with a clean triangular roof about 2/3 of the way up. It is just left of the Crack & Face/Widespread Shelfishness face at left fringe of the Hot Spot area near the Winterfest Wall. I like this route better than the quality ratings in the guidebooks would indicate.

Follow rounded holds on the right side of the arete up to the ledge below the roof or up the left side of the arete transitioning to a short slab on thin exfoliation holds to the same ledge. Clip the bolt under the roof with a long draw or runner to avoid rope drag above and take the wild swing out right and mantel up on to the slab (5.9) or crank straight over the roof (5.11a). Good footwork will pay high dividends on the roof move. In either case, finish up the easier arete above on thin face holds to the anchors (#154 in Hubbel, #28 in Rolofson).


5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Crowbar Cowboy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug going right at the roof for the mellower but ...
Doug going right at the roof for the mellower but ...

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By Deaun Schovajsa
Nov 26, 2008

The correct name is Crowbar Cowboy and FA was Deaun Schovajsa and Dave Gottenborg, circa 1994.
By A. Bandos
Dec 7, 2014

Quick beta warning:

With my fat fingers, I had to mono with right hand while deadpointing high with left to pull the roof. It's just one move, but it felt harder than 11a.

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