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Rivelin Edge
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Croton Oil 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pete Crew, 1963 (previously aided)
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: Rob Davies UK on Oct 31, 2011

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Moving left after the start of Croton Oil (photo b...

Description 

Up a wide crack to a ledge. Move up the wall above, trending left to a good crack (one long reach). Finish up the slightly dodgy finishing flake, then descend by abseil down the short overhanging north side.

Location 

Rivelin Needle is the obvious free-standing obelisk at the centre of Rivelin Edge. Start at the base of the south face.

Protection 

Well-protected by cams and wires. Chain at top for belay and abseil.


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By farkas.time
From: Storrs, CT
Aug 27, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I found the protection to be a bit fiddly -- not a good first 5.9/5.10 lead, but the climb is quite excellent, with really nice exposure and a lovely position high above the Rivelin Valley.

The OW start is pretty cool (kneebar!), but is a bit contrived, given it's only 10 feet of climbing, it's useless to try and protect it, and you can just walk around.

The rappel chain is a little sketchy -- it's thin, rusty, and you can't check half of it. If I knew how to install a couple bolts, I would.
By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
Aug 28, 2013

Bolts on natural grit? You'd get lynched!

edit: that said, I think there's a couple of rap bolts on top of Froggatt pinnacle...

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