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Routes in Lower Tier
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Admiral's Club T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Autopilot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cockpit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Crop Duster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flight Simulator T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Red Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Eye Dihedral T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | K. Martinov and A. Pon, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 644 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 29, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
The lower tier on Pilot knob is the longer of the two and holds several climbs, but these are lower quality in general than the top tier, perhaps suffering a lack of light that allows more lichen to grow there. We used this route to access the superior, albeit shorter routes on the upper tier.
Climb up a somewhat dirty dank corner past a little tree into a crack system on the slab above. Work up and right on a series of occasional cracks and flakes, following available gear and instinct, passing a shrub or two on their right sides before coming to a ledge with a large belay tree shared by Auto Pilot. Belay here or continue to scramble up to the base of Tier 2, below Stress Fracture, where there are 2 belay bolts.
Climb up a somewhat dirty dank corner past a little tree into a crack system on the slab above. Work up and right on a series of occasional cracks and flakes, following available gear and instinct, passing a shrub or two on their right sides before coming to a ledge with a large belay tree shared by Auto Pilot. Belay here or continue to scramble up to the base of Tier 2, below Stress Fracture, where there are 2 belay bolts.
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