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Crooked Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,804
Submitted By: Marcy on Apr 1, 2008  with updates from OliverS

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (85)
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BETA PHOTO: Crooked Crack

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Nice crack going up a moderate angled wall. The crack trends right then straight up and then back left. Longer slings will help with rope drag.

Descent:

After topping out, scramble right and down to a small tree with webbing and rap ring. One single rope rap gets you down.
(note - From the base of the wall, this rap is above a pillar to the right of the route. The tree is visible from the ground.)
A alternate rap can be done from above the route Tonto.

Location 

Left side of Ragged Edges area.

Protection 

Small to medium gear (I think the largest we used was a #1 Camalot), a few longer slings to manage rope drag through the zig-zag portions.


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By Shawn Overstreet
From: Jackson, Wy
Apr 18, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun route! Excellent rock, good pro, and varied climbing. The new guide says there are anchors up top but I believe they have been chopped (There is a horizontal that you can build an anchor on a few feet from the top). There are several rap options to get down.
By JeanGClimbs
From: Reading, VT
May 6, 2010

Correct - there is no fixed anchor at the top of this climb. This climb is easy for the grade - easier than the 5.5 start of the climbs to the right. Walk right from the top to get to the Tonto Rappel.
By Ron Graham
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This is a wonderful route for a new trad leader! The climbing is easy with lots of holds and the gear placement options are continuous from bottom to top.
By Jonathan Simonton
From: Chandler
Mar 23, 2012

Good route for beginner, however I'm a new leader and i was bored on this route. Not a varied climb. Was kind of the same thing throughout.
By Steve123
May 11, 2014

Note on the descent: As of May 2014, the "rappel anchor at the top of the wall" that is listed in the Handren guide does not exist. There is also not a slung tree near the top of the pillar to the the right of the climb. To descend, walk over to the Tonto tree and rappel from there. A single 70 meter rope works for the rappel.
By Jim H
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 24, 2014

Steve123 - I was there in Aug 2014 and the rappel anchors was in at the top of Revoked. There is very mild scrambling to get to it, but a clean, easy rapp.
By oskarski
From: las vegas
Aug 25, 2016

there's a nice new bolted anchor with chains as of august 2016
By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
Oct 17, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

From the new rap anchor a single 70m will almost reach the start ledge, leaving a 1-2 foot downclimb.
By E Johnson
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Easier than Tonto. A lot of fun. We rapped from a tree a route or two to climbers' right after a little down scramble.
By SP Boston
From: Watertown, MA
3 days ago
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Very pleasant route. Just to be clear: the original instructions mention a 150 foot climb. The distance to the anchors is now exactly 117 feet (thus the 2 foot down climb if you rap using a 70m rope). Also, the scramble to climber's immediate right and down is easy *unless* there is water running in the groove, in which case it is a little spicy. The tree with rap rings at the top of the pillar are in good shape, but the tree is more of a giant bush, and the rap rings are not easily seen with the naked eye from above before the down scramble.

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