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Dinosaur Tower- Northwest Side
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L to R R to L Alpha
Cro-Magnon/Caveman T 
Dr. Leakey S 
Pebbles and Bam-Bam T 
Unsorted Routes:

Cro-Magnon/Caveman 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Nick Drake on Sep 27, 2016

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Description 

Route would climb through what looks like a very interesting roof in the NW face. On the right side. Note this description also goes for "Caveman" +9, which takes the same start.

First it follows a slab ramp up and right from a sandy bench at small tree. There are no opportunities for gear on this section. It then goes up left following a line of moss that may have been a crack when a guidebook was printed in 76.

At this section there was still no pro. "Holds" crumbled to sand in your hand. At the only pod I had seen for pro I tried placing a nut, the rock exploded into a dust cloud with a light pull.

I don't like soloing on a sand dune, so I decided to make a tenuous downclimb of the "friction slab" that was all loose sand.

Location 

Roof in NW face as you walk toward sunset slab.

Protection 

Bring a boat anchor and stab it into the rock?


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