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Critter Cracks 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Jeff Beavers
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: Jeff Beavers on Sep 20, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Dirty Hooker (pink). Slot Party (blue). Back Alley...


Start on two handed crimp (same as Back Ally Chris Cringle and Bad Irish Accent). Move left to the roof and ascend via dihedral crack. Crux involves moving off a two finger pocket to a great pinch undercling and toe hook combo that allows a big move or bumping through slopers to a jug.


Farthest right of the Balcony Rock boulders at Harpers Ferry.


Took 2 crash pads to properly protect. STAY TO THE INSIDE of the roof. Moving to the outer arête puts you over the edge of the shelf with a deadly fall.

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By Conrad S.
Sep 21, 2015
rating: V4 6B

@ Justlikepie12, in the photo you posted and in another photo that was posted for Bad Irish Accent, it looks like the big tree that was on the ledge (behind the climbers back) is gone. Is the tree still there? Thanks, haven't been out there in a while and was wondering if the tree fell.
By Jeff Beavers
Sep 21, 2015

@conrad This is my first season climbing at this boulder so I've never seen a tree on the ledge. There is a 6" deep or so hole in the ground that goes right up to the edge of the rocks at the start for those two climbs. I'm guessing the tree was there and fell down the hill. That hole is why I say you need two pads now. It's a real ankle snapper if you don't get the whole thing covered.
By Conrad S.
Sep 22, 2015
rating: V4 6B

@JustLikePie12, Sounds like it's gone then. It use to block that area and you basically had to crawl out through the notch. There were also a bunch of vines hanging on the tree that made it difficulty to top out. Thanks for the beta on the hole in the ground and the need for pads.

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