REI Community
Critic's Choice
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 
Acronymph T 
Barley Route T 
BBC from Cleveland T 
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 
Break a Leg T 
Bunny Slope T 
Critic's Choice T 
Cult Classic T 
Ed's World T 
Fist of Fury T 
Fisticuffs T 
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 
Just Because T 
Life.... T 
Mr. Bad News T 
Mr. Critical T 
New Life or Second Life T 
Ruby Flame T 
Sabrina T 
Second Choice T 
Sgt. Fish Scale T 
Short and Stout T 
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 
Wrench Route  T 

Critic's Choice 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ruckman Bros.
Season: morning sun, afternoon shade
Page Views: 4,744
Submitted By: camhead on Mar 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jonah on his impressive effort getting into the ea...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is a super classic, super pumpy splitter. Goes from tips with quite a few feet to pumpy good fingers, a bit of off-fingers, and then a final thirty foot sprint through STEEP perfect hands to the anchors. Sometimes sandy, and usually unsullied by lame-ass chalk and tick marks.


From the approach trail's topout, go a few hundred yards to the right, then look for the most classic splitter on the cliff.


You will die if you use Bloom's gear beta of only one .5 Friend. Friends Sizes: (4).5, (3).75, (2)1, (3)1.5, (3)2.5, (2)3

Photos of Critic's Choice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Buttshot of me gunning it to the anchors on Critic...
Buttshot of me gunning it to the anchors on Critic...
Rock Climbing Photo: J.A. preparing for an eventual ass-kicking on Crit...
BETA PHOTO: J.A. preparing for an eventual ass-kicking on Crit...

Comments on Critic's Choice Add Comment
Show which comments
By D-Storm
Apr 14, 2010

A good primer for Ziji's second pitch, which is also sandy but with rattly fingers. For me, the finger crack on Critic's Choice was more like flared tips than the sinker locks I usually get on yellow-Alien/Metolius-sized cracks.
By Andrew McMullin
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2011

Climbed this route on Oct 30. It was one of the best splitter cracks I've ever done and had an adventure element to it because it was sandy. At first the sand scared me, but I quickly realized that it barely affected my ability to jam. Fun to climb a route with no chalk on it. My gear beta is to bring plenty of small stuff up to green camalots, one red camalot and 3 gold camalots. Also, there is a decent warmup to the right that isn't in the book...a 5.10+ with a stone marker that is called "b.b.c. From cleveland.". It's a chimney to an interesting green camalot double crack to a #3 camalot finish. A #4 is optional for the top. Good chains.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About
Terms · Privacy © 2017 Adventure Projects, Inc.