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Critical View
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Critical View 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Bowman, Vernon Phinney-1985 Ground Up
Page Views: 1,279
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Aug 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Eric heading up critical view

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This is a frustrating 5.8, and that is because the first 8 feet are balancy 5.10! An excellent route to sandbag beginner climbers on, which I found out on my first day of climbing as I never really got off the ground.

This is the bolt line closest to Hornets Nest on Critical View. Stand up on a large blocky foothold, which is much harder and more delicate than it looks. A few more thin moves get you to the second bolt, and then cruiser 5.8 to the top.



Photos of Critical View Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chace looking to clip the next bolt
Chace looking to clip the next bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: Chace heading up critical view
Chace heading up critical view
Rock Climbing Photo: Dana reaching for the next move.
Dana reaching for the next move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott moving past the nob.
Scott moving past the nob.
Rock Climbing Photo: dana pulling the move to get off the nob
dana pulling the move to get off the nob

Comments on Critical View Add Comment
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By Bob Archbold
Aug 30, 2002

This route use to be definately 5.8. But through the course of erosion and the missing stone the start has gotten harder. The ground use to be at least 18 inches higher aqt the base of the rock. I use to be able to walk up to the route and step right up on the big knob. Now I have to make some interesting moves to get on it. Then there was a cheater stone at it's base for awhile which is now gone too.
By Brad Boner
Oct 4, 2003

I get a kick out of just walking by this route. Every time I'm in the South Seas and I pass Critical View I'm amused by how people remedy their frustration of the start of the route. As Bob said, the large nob at the bottom keeps getting higher and higher from erosion, and people get more and more creative in how they get up to that nob. Once I saw smaller rocks with sticks on top piled up at the base, another time there was this small boulder there that only could've been lifted by two people, and just recently I found a log braced between the nob and ground for frustrated climbers to walk up. Admittedly, when I first started climbing about nine years ago, Tom Bodensteiner and myself used to take a running start at the route, quickdraw in hand, and hop up on that nob to clip the first bolt. I'm glad to say I've since solved the "problem" of the boulder start, but Critical View is still one of my own personal classics.
By Just Another Anonymous User
Mar 24, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

this was my first lead. Had a lot of fun. tricky on bottom but after that had a great time. 2 stars
By Carly
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 4, 2006

"The boost" is always a humbling experience.
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

If routes are suppose to be graded on the hardest moves then this is a 5.10. It's even listed in Vernon Phinney's Rushmore guidebook as "5.10 boulder start" and I have to agree. I don't know where the original 5.8 grade came from b/c I'd have to say after the opener it eases up considerably to 5.5 to 5.7ish moves. Really fun climb non the less. Don't use the cheater blocks either, figure out the moves, they're pretty straight forward.
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Nov 20, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

fyi new guidebook confirms the 5.10 rating...
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Nov 29, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

regardless of me posting way too much here... there are no more 10 moves on this climb, there is a permanent cheater stone now, they've built up the ground to control run off and make it more accessible, makes the climb clock in around 5.7++/5.8..
By Mark Orsag
From: Omaha, NE
Jun 20, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Love the flowing moves on this-- steep rich crystal seam. Only lacks height... Blowing the third clip with the raised base though might not end well. Somewhat twisted scary stance there for someone under 6 ft. Despite that, a personal favorite...
By Mike Madsen
From: Rapid City
Jun 20, 2014

This route is now 5.7-5.8 at the hardest. good route!
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jul 27, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The new "base" makes it just a move of 5.8 to get off the ground (pulling on the sloper), followed by easier climbing above.

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