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Ice Cream Parlor
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Unsorted Routes:

Critical Mass 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Baker, Andy Roberts
Page Views: 5,533
Submitted By: Greg D on Apr 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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Mia Greene (10) on the crack.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Start up a slightly left slanting off fingers crack, move right (rock is poor if continuing left) then head back left and up to anchors on a right facing wall.


This route starts 30 feet left and slightly down the hill from 5.6 Corner.


Camalots .4 to 1. An extra .5 or .75 and a few medium nuts to sew it up.

Photos of Critical Mass Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: James on Critical Mass (taken from the road below)
James on Critical Mass (taken from the road below)
Rock Climbing Photo: new guy in the desert enjoying some crack
new guy in the desert enjoying some crack
Rock Climbing Photo: The finger crack start of Unkown 8.
The finger crack start of Unkown 8.
Rock Climbing Photo: On Lead
On Lead

Comments on Critical Mass Add Comment
Show which comments
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I sewed it up pretty well with single cams from blue Zero (about .3 C4) up to #4 friend. After the initial fingers section, it mellows out A LOT, but the rock gets much worse.
By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2009

If this ends at/below a rotten rock choked dihedral, then it's called Critical Mass. Thinking it was the last route that could be sneaked in to the area. Of course we were wrong. F.A. Mike Baker, Andy Roberts, and Wilson Goodrich.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun little route away from the crowds of the main crag. Lots of little edges around the crack make for some good rests.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Jun 2, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I wish the initial crack could just go the whole way to the anchors! This is a great lead for those new to the grade, plenty of pro and rests. Probably closer to a 5.7.
By Jake Web
Oct 20, 2016

This was my favorite lead in ice cream parlor! Great climb! Less slabby and more vertical so it was a lot more fun then cracks 1-3 in my opinion.

Also very protected. I have a double set of camalots from .2-3 and had a few extras to spare, but pretty much sewed the whole climb up. Never once felt run out. Also managed to fit get a nut in there.

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