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Zoo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Body Suit T 
Closed Heimer TR 
Conflict In Terms T,TR 
Crazy Alice T 
Critical Mass T,TR 
Delete this route, Duplicate! T 
Dihedral, The T,TR 
Dr. Coolhead T,TR 
Extended Altar Call T 
Fantasy Roof T,TR 
Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route" T 
Flying Nun Variation T 
Flying Nun, The T 
Knuckle Sandwich T 
Larin Has Balls T 
Leap Frog T,TR 
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 
Masters of Reality T 
McBride's Mind T 
No Stone Unturned T,TR 
Resurrection Factor T 
Scrotum Roof T,TR 
Shake and Bake T 
Side Saddle T,TR 
Slap Roof T 
Sloth T 
Squeeze Play T,TR 
Straight Face TR 
Sundown Dihedral T,TR 
Sweet Jesus T,TR 
Time the Avenger TR 
Too Much Fun T 
Triple Decker T 
Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 
Yellow Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Critical Mass 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Sep 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Anthony pulling the roof.

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>


Climb up the slab and then make 3-6 moves through the roof crack to the lip(crux) then move up into a nice handcrack above.


The easy slab that is just to the right of the main roof section in the middle of Zoo Wall. Look for the roof about 40-50 feet up with a single splitter that is divided at the lip.


All gear.

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By Herndon
Feb 11, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is actually a great route. The crack is kind of wavy in width, so you just find the spots that fit you and mild the jams. Pulling the lip is the crux. Pro is excellent.

I think that this is a super sandbag at .10b. For a while there it was rated .11a.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 4, 2010

10b is the old school rating... example... Dr. Coolhead was rated 10a by the Lohn book, which it's been upgraded to 10d, a more appropriate letter in my book.
Nov 6, 2016

Bats in crack this past weekend...Bat poopoo too.

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