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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Topeka T 
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 
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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Stannard, Willie Crowther, 1967
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Aug 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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1. Climb into the right-facing corner. This ends in a roof. Step left to a belay stance. 40 feet, 5.11a.

2. Climb up a left-facing corner, past a small roof, then straight up to the top. This pitch is very contrived. Moving two feet or so (literally) left or right of the line described in the guide - at the overhangs - lowers the grade dramatically. As per the guide: 40 feet, 5.10c.

I've done the first pitch 3 times, and it is always a grunt.


Look for a right-facing, overhanging inside corner about 30 feet high; about 25 feet right of the overhanging inside corner broken by a hand crack, which is Criss Cross Direct.


Standard rack

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By georgejessel
Oct 18, 2016

Short, well-protected and unexpectedly hard. Maybe I missed the 11- sequence? Terrific moves, though. Worth doing as a warm-down on your walk out.

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