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Crispy Flake 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Phillips, Don Cossel, 2014
Page Views: 521
Submitted By: Andrew Davidson on May 26, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Just below mid-route belay ledge

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Route to the right of Cutting Teeth that follows a bolted line to the right side of the big tree in the middle of wall.

Well bolted, slab climb up to a good ledge where the mid route rap station is. Lay back a short corner crack to a small roof. Continue into more slab climbing up to a nice hand rail flake to the anchors.

There are no bolts once you get to the flake up high. You can place gear or run it out if you are comfortable with about 30ft of low angle 5.4ish to the anchor.

Also, when lowering, make sure to keep your rope out of the flake to minimize rope drag.

Location 

Starts with Cutting Teeth, but veers right before the first bolt.

Protection 

Bolts,
Optional Gear to 1"
Chain Anchors,
Midroute Bolted Rap Station,

It is possible to scramble up to the mid belay station by taking the wide crack/ramp system found at the start of Cutting Teeth/Ranchstyle


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By Jim B Phillips
Aug 11, 2015

Thanks for climbing our route and posting about it.
I (Jim Phillips) put up this route with Don Cossel last year and named it Crispy Flake. We are glad to get your opinion on the rating. We thought the move at the start of the second pitch from the pine tree was harder than 5.8. Glad to get another opinion. We will adjust our rating to 5.8 on the topo.
By Andrew Davidson
From: Everett, WA
Aug 12, 2015

Thanks Jim, I updated the page. In regards to the move starting the second pitch. At the time I didn't think the move was as hard as Cutting teeth next to it. But maybe because it was right off a good ledge it didn't feel that hard.

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