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Crisco Way 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rusty Baillie and Jack Huack
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: arjunmh on Dec 13, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Brian at the top of the pitch before traversing ri...

Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a the single pitch off-width that seems like the best way to do Green Savior and is reflected in the description of "Triple Direct". But, it shows up as a different route in the Cramer guide and the descriptions of Green Savior and Triple Direct can be confusing about how Crisco Way fits in. If you're heading up to do the main part of Green Savior, this is definitely a pitch not to be missed, though it is stouter and more of a thrutch than anything on G.S. That said, it protects easily and well and taking it calmly, one thrutch at a time works very well. Like the Triple Direct description says, be sure to protect the traverse right to the start of the main pitches of G.S. as the follower could take a very bad swing. Protection is ample and varied and doesn't really need anything wide, even though Cramer notes "Put those big cams to good use."

Worked well to start left side in and then switch to right side in when the hand cracks become usable.

Location 

If you start on the traditional way up Green Savior, then this pitch becomes obvious as soon as you go up and over the "window" and look up towards the main stretch of Green Savior. Crisco Way is the obvious and compelling off-width that is up and left. See photo.

Protection 

Singles to #3. If you've got wide stuff for the upper part of G.S. you might use, but not necessary as the hand and finger cracks are great in the back of the off width. Upper traverse is tricky to protect.


Photos of Crisco Way Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian in the midst of it. Note that he's now right...
Brian in the midst of it. Note that he's now right...

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