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Cripple Creek 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 2012 April 19
New Route: Yes
Season: April - Oct
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Apr 24, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Better than expected climbing, with an airy choice (avoidable) for topping out. When you are up on it, give a nod to Levon.
Climb the short face utilizing the cracks, negotiating a difficult treaty with a few trees to gain a large ledge (one can get to here by scrambling in from the left). Step over to the main cliff face at a vertical crack in a groove outside from and left of a large, brush-choked notch under an overhang. Ascend the crack, which slides right, under a bulging arête, into a corner system. Continue up to a ledge, then hand-traverse right airily out onto and up a slab to finish. One could push through the brush on the ledge for an easier top-out, but it's less enjoyable.


After climbing the lower, shorter ladder, walk along the trail fifty feet more, then cut off left, across a small mossy marsh, bushwhacking up along the right side of a rockslide area. Walk climber's right along the base of the cliff, to a short face split by a wide crack in the ctr. and a narrower crack on the left. This is about 100' right of the rockfall, in a pretty thick growth area, so keep a sharp eye out. The initial face is only 12' tall or so.


Small to medium cams, tricams, some stoppers.

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