REI Community
The North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1st route left of the Gap S 
Altar of Sacrifice S 
Beckey Route S 
Blood Blister S 
Criminally Insane S 
Desert Shield S 
Feather in My Cap S 
Forty Bucks in the Dark T,S 
Get the Pever Fever S 
Jesus Saves S 
Mandatory Suicide S 
Notch Route S 
Ruffled Feathers S 
Satan's Little Helper S 
Satan's Wagon S 
Shake It Don't Break It S 
Shin Smasher S 
Suites of the Carrion Kind S 
Unknown S 
Uprising, The S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends S 

Criminally Insane 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Leland Windham
Page Views: 790
Submitted By: Justin Slagle on Apr 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


The start of the climb is 5.7/8ish, first and second bolts are easy to get to, but a touch up there. The crux is at the top of the climb at the overhang, but is protected. After a big mantle at the top, you're done. The rap bolts are a good 15 feet back, bring some long slings if you plan to TR it after lead. There is chains, but you can downclimb off the back side easy enough


Climb is located 2 faces left of satan's little helper


6-7 bolts

Comments on Criminally Insane Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ian Dickson
Oct 26, 2009

This route is called 'Criminally Insane' in Yoder. FA Leland Windham
By Justin Slagle
From: Palm Desert, CA
Dec 21, 2009

Is it 10A? i took a guess when i posted
By Ian Dickson
Dec 24, 2009

Listed as 10a in Yoder, yes. Felt like a Coulee 10a to me as well.
By -Jeremy Nelson
Sep 25, 2016

6 bolts, , as usual high 1st bolt, good clipping stances though. Seems the anchors could be moved down and closer to topping out. If there are no objections to the first ascent, the next time I go climb it, i'd move them down.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About