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Criminal Mischief 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Richard Wright, 1992
Page Views: 2,075
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jul 1, 2001

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Criminal Mischief is quite the challenge to those of us sport climbers who lack great jamming ability. Start up the easy ledges right of Great Escape, and jam your way up to some sloping holds, followed by more sloping /jamming holds, finally to a phenomenal hand jam at the horizontal roof. This is quite the exciting clip, hanging from the one hand jam and rare to find on a sport climb. Follow this with a crazy section of fist jamming to pull the final lip. All in all, a great route, difficult for the grade, and a jamming challenge. Two stars for some awkward moves, but highly recommended.


6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

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By Anonymous Coward
May 1, 2002

Just went to the Wall of Justice for the 2nd time yesterday, and saw a retreat biner at the lip of Criminal Mischief. No surprise for me - having tried this route on my first trip. After doing the rest of this route - with a hang or two - turning the lip shut me down completely, any my partner as well.

The Great Escape, 2 letter grades harder & just to the left, felt much easier to me! Not only did the crux feel easier, the entire route felt easier than Criminal Mischief, which has many tough moves on it. The long reach on the good hand jam to clip the bolt at the lip of Criminal seems easy compared to much of the route.

I fairly easily - well, more or less - was able to on-sight all the 11's on this wall, but this 12a - oof! Couldn't even turn the lip--I aided to the anchor...

Any beta on turning the roof? Similar experiences? broken holds? 12a?!?

with crushed ego, Anon
By chris deulen
From: Castle Rock
Oct 15, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This climb puts a smile on my face. I felt much the same way as Anon, but found AN's beta to be right on (before I read it. not that it wouldn't have helped, just saying nevermind.) The end, for some reason, feels so much more exposed that a lot of things on this wall. Maybe it's because you can see the entire canyon below your legs when stemming on the arete and the face. Pretty sick.
By Nate26
Jun 8, 2008

Sweet climb. I don't remember any stemming, but I do remember using my head and shoulder to turn the lip full value for sure.
By D@n Morta
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2008

Good route. ***Shameless Beta Follows***

From the handjam just over the lip, gaston the sloping rail, turn the handjam into a sidepull and walk your feet up to good edges on the left face and then mantle.
By Patrick Pharo
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 4, 2009

Huh. I went left at the top.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 20, 2009

This feels harder than both The Great Escap and Slammer to me... and it's not that I don't know how to handjam. Maybe a high gravity night or somethin'.
By GabeO
From: New Haven, CT
Aug 12, 2009

Nice climb! I rarely tape up outside of places like the Creek, but I strongly recommend taping for this climb. The rock here is like vagina dentata, it will eat you alive.
By dameeser
From: denver
Jun 15, 2010

Lol, that movie was messed up.
By GabeO
From: New Haven, CT
Apr 19, 2012

BTW, I found the jamming relatively not bad at all. The moves at the top were really crazy awkward and hard though.
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Jun 14, 2013

+1 for the teeth reference.

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