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Murphy's Dome South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beer is Better T 
Black Streak Through Overlap S 
Bottom Feeder S 
Chris and Pete's Wake Up Call T 
Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile) T 
Hey, Dude S 
Irish Red S 
King and Eye, The TR 
Murphy's Law S 
Murphy's Stout S 
Pork Meadows S 
Slim Chance S,TR 
Stitch of Time T,S 
Water Witch S 
Where's My Car? S 

Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile) 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Kris and Kirk Hower, 01/90
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 109
Submitted By: TBD on May 28, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The route with a rope on it.

Description 

This route follows a crack that crosses several routes. It starts the same as unknown 5.9, it then cross the unkown route to its right and The King & Eye, and then finishes on Chris & Pete's Wake Up Call.

Although it's a very obvious line, it's not in Hubbel's book, so it may be a first ascent. The crack was rather dirty in between the routes it crosses and I wanted to give it a name rather than add another "unknown" to this area.

Start as for Unknown 5.9 [Stitch of Time], clipping the first bolt. Follow the crack up and to the right, placing gear as you go. A #4 BD micro nut is helpful above the first bolt. The crack peters out just before the bolt on The King & Eye. Clip it and make a heady traverse over to Chris & Pete's Wake Up Call. From the top of the flake, run it out over easy ground to a two bolt anchor up and left of the obvious, large tree.

Rap about 120 feet to the ground or one short rap to the bolted anchor below and then another 80 feet to the ground.

Per Jay Eggleston": you can clip 3 bolts, not two.... The second route you cross is Pork Meadows.

Protection 

2 QDs and trad gear. I used a #4 BD micro nut, a yellow, red, and orange Alien, and a #4 Friend.

Per Jay Eggleston": I placed a #0.5 Camalot and a #1.5 Friend (for those that don't use Aliens). I also used nuts.


Photos of Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up showing a placement and the 2nd bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Midway up showing a placement and the 2nd bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: I borrowed Andrew's photo from "unknown 5.9&q...
BETA PHOTO: I borrowed Andrew's photo from "unknown 5.9&q...

Comments on Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile) Add Comment
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By Jason Haas
Dec 1, 2010

FA: Kris and Kirk Hower, 01/90, and they named it Crimes Against Rock.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Sep 16, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

This route is ok but not that great. It is not described well above. You can clip 3 bolts, not two. The "unknown 5.9" you start on is Stitch of Time. The second route you cross is Pork Meadows. I placed a 0.5 Camalot and a 1.5 Friend (for those that don't use Aliens). I also used nuts.

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