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(2) Wildfire Wall
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Crime Wave 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Alan Lester, 1983
Page Views: 1,285
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on May 30, 2006

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nic on crime wave

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Once past the the initial 10', this excellent route is a technical face climb up the tips crack with gear for protection. I found crux moves 20' - 30' high and in the final 15'. Allegedly, a fixed piton(s) protected the upper crux section at one time but is no longer present. I used BD #2 and #3 microstoppers to sew up the seam, hence the PG13 rating.


Begin just right of Gruff on the right side of the Wildfire Wall.


Many small camming units and very small - medium stoppers are required for pro. I didn't use anything larger than a #1 TCU. Rappel off of the anchors at the top of Gruff.

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Awesome TR after Gruff. You'll want a directional (green C3 worked). Would be a heady lead at the top......
By Daniel Vakili
Aug 31, 2015

I slung a horn with a sling on the ledge before the final thin face, so I knew I would technically be ok. got a small nut in before heading off up that face, feeling like a champ until pulling the last bulge. i looked down, and saw how far away that tiny little nut was, and there was NOTHING to place on my rack. I yelled "Jesus!". I was ready to bite that spicy pepper, but suddenly found a tiny blind nut placement around the corner, placed my last nut which I had pulled from a previous placement earlier on, and finished up with mild sauce. Sustained in the body, sustained in the mind, sustained in the soul.
By Blake Allen Green
Sep 17, 2015

Carry blue ball nuts for the upper part and the whole thing is really safe!!

Also, the above mentioned horn is very loose. I highly discourage grabbing, let alone slinging that thing. There is a good cam/wire placement at torso height when standing on the ledge.

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