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Lower Grotto Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Before There Were Nine S 
Coldfusion T 
Crime Victim S 
Cryogenics T 
Engagement, The S 
Espresso Love S 
Girly Man S 
Grotto Wall Traverse T 
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 
Headless Franken Chicken S 
Insurrection S 
Knuckle Head, The S 
Mad Arab T 
One for the Road S 
Pea Brain S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 
Stage Fright S 
Stand By Your Van T,S 
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 
Tarzan S 
Tommy's 13b S 
Twin Cracks T 
Under Pressure S 
Under Pressure - Extension S 
Victims of Fashion T,S 
Wire and Fire T,S 
YQ T,TR 

Crime Victim 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: Alvaro Arnal on Oct 22, 2014

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Description 

Yes, this is a link-up, but it's a pretty badass, direct linkup of 3 great routes! This link-up takes the directissima line up the imposing, middle section of Lower Grotto Wall.

The first challenge greets you immediately by climbing Scene of the Crime (old school 12+...++). From the anchor, continue straight up into the dihedral pitch of Rocket Man Dihedral (11c, 3" cam optional). At the top of the dihedral, keep climbing straight up to the P1 anchor of Victims of Fashion (instead of trending right into Rocket Man's proper anchor). From here, tackle Victim's burly 12b/c roof pitch to the final set of anchors.

While there is a lot of hard climbing on this link-up, you do get complete rests at the anchors of each of the individual pitches, which are set on recessed ledges. For reduced rope drag, avoid clipping the mid-anchors along the route; the first bolts of the following pitches are not hard to get to.

Location 

Start on Scene of the Crime, and continue climbing straight up!

Protection 

Bolts, optional 3" cam.

You need a 70 meter rope to lower off of this climb!


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By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Oct 23, 2014

Ya, I thought you need gear for the dihedral, no? This wall is prime for link-ups!

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