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Crime & Punishment 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 2,308
Submitted By: Grant Bryans on May 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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BETA PHOTO: The crux of "Crime" hits you right at th...


Use the same start as Evolution, at the second bolt bust left and climb to the second belay of Durangotang. This route has some heady runout, but it is quality.



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By Max schon
Jan 27, 2008

Crime and Punishment has been sanitized by the addition of several bolts (by Tim I assume), most recently at the start. It is now another excellent and safe route and not the scare fest it was ten years ago. Have fun!
By Matt Pickren
Jun 13, 2009

I am by no means one who gets kicks out of sandbagging others. But this route is 5.10b. Easier than Durangotang by far.
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Apr 13, 2010

The first bolt has become known as the "panty bolt", so named for the panties that were hung on it this winter in an apparent protest of its retro addition.

By the way, it protects the hardest move on the whole route which is either 11a or 10b if you're a sandbagger like Matt...!
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Why even go as low as to call it 10b when you could even call it 5.9? I think, I will go with the grade of 11a/10b/5.9-. That seems to be a good grade for the route. Call it whatever you want, but keep it to yourself.
By ozman
From: CO / NM
Aug 21, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Sandbagging aside; this route is 11-. Durangutan is the one that is sandbagged. It's start should go 10d or 11-. Peace!
By Andrew McLean
From: Colorado
Sep 22, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I would say this felt about 11a at the start. The crux near the top was definitely sequency but not quite as hard. I felt it to be about on par with Durangutan. I guess that means Durangutan is sandbagged at 10c. With "Durang" in the name of the climb, I would certain expect it to be sandbagged.
By Ian Altman
From: CO
Dec 9, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Ha Ha. I added the "panty bolt" (awesome story that made me laugh tonight!) in 2007 with Tim's approval. I think he even showed me that day where he'd put it, and we agreed that many others would climb the route (and Evolution too) if the first crux was protected. Although I onsighted the route in the '90s, I was still scared shitless of the ankle breaking crux move every time I looked up at it. The truth was, you just couldn't fall there! Although I was proud of my onsight of this East A. classic, I hence forth avoided the route for years after. So in the mid '00s, I noticed Tim was modernizing his route and figured he might consider protecting the first crux. He agreed, and now you'll see people on it all time.
And for those of you who might want to experience a pantyless Crime and Punishment, just don't clip the first bolt.
And on my perspective of the rating: I always thought the technical crux was higher up, at the bulge of the Watchcrystal face, just like most of the face climbs on the wall. When I climbed it in the '90s, without the panty bolt, the first crux felt like unprotected 5.9. Maybe it was just wishful thinking, as you stepped out beyond the point of return and were faced with a harder move, some 20 feet off the ground. Funny thing is though, now that there is a bolt there, it does feel a lot harder to me, and it seems that most agree this is the true crux of the entire route.

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