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Criller  

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Wayne Crill, Greg Miller, Aug. 2014 (top rope)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 727
Submitted By: Greg Miller on Oct 28, 2014

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Criller is ROUTE B.

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  • Description 

    This route has a lot of varied climbing...a tricky slab, a stiff boulder problem crux on bullet hard Eldo sandstone, and a pumpy roof traverse.

    Climb right-facing flakes, stepping left when it ends for a thin slab move, follow easier moves up to the strata following this until you're beneath the beautiful, chocolate milk, boulder problem crux. Once you have fired this, you are underneath the obvious, right-leaning roof, shake out, fight the pump, and undercling/crimp your way around this all the way to the end. Follow slightly easier rock to the ridge line.

    Setting up a top rope is possible with static rope. It's handy if you can drop it down low enough and put directionals in for your rope. This might be a good candidate for being bolted.

    Location 

    Begin just right of No Visible Means of Support at an obviously right-facing flake that begins behind a boulder.

    Protection 

    SR with extra small/medium cams.


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    By EDJ
    From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
    Jan 20, 2015

    This is a worthy route...a pain to rig for a TR, however. Wayne had preplaced some gear for his attempt which came in handy for directionals. I think this route is worth bolting. It would link nicely into Joe's pitch higher up. What would Wayne want?
    By Greg Miller
    Jan 20, 2015

    The pieces left as directional weren't suppose to be there as fixed pieces, the day we went to lead these routes we noticed someone took down our intricate top rope anchor left up for the week. We had planned to lower off and clean the remaining directional pieces; however, we didn't want to deal with it and figured we'd clean on the follow. I think this could also make for a good mixed route (gear and bolts) as there are good natural gear placements.
    I think Wayne would approve of bolting. It's a great climb on good rock and his vision for a route on an intimidating wall.
    By Greg Miller
    Oct 2, 2015

    I think this should be bolted, Wayne spotted the line and put a lot of work into cleaning it up. After we climbed the route on top rope, and he realized it could be led, it was to him, his last mark he'd leave in Eldo before moving away.

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