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(1) Parched Cat Cliff (aka Cox Rocks)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cretin's Retreat T 
Ferret's Dead, The T 
Half-n-Half aka Hack Attack  T,TR 
Lonesome Crowded West T 
Oriface T 
Three Fingered Hack T 

Cretin's Retreat 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: to original anchors, Stu Stuller, Pete Pollard, 1981 entire route, Chuck Buzzard, 1983
Page Views: 500
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Nov 22, 2006

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


It's the obvious corner in the middle of the crag. Stemming and jamming the finger crack gets you most of the way up, with the crux coming at the top when the crack runs out. This route shares a bolted anchor with The Ferret's Dead.


Parched Cat cliff, this is the first really obvious corner you encounter after scrambling down from the rim.


Gear to 2.5 inches

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By rpc
Sep 21, 2007

Thought this was better than Wildfire next door that gets 4 stars from Watts (longer & more sustained stemming).
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 6, 2012

Ditto on this being better than Wildfire. There's an extension called Orifice (10b) now doable with a 70m rope, a couple of draws and medium/small cams. Worth doing!

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