This is one of the "Four Great 14er Traverses". It is a fun route on good rock but is not as aesthetic as other traverses as you are rarely on the ridgecrest. As with all alpine climbs, be prepared for bad weather, start early, and expect tricky route-finding.
From the summit of Crestone Peak, descend to the saddle where the Northwest and South gullies meet at the ridge crest. Descend the South gully for approximately 500 feet, and find a path of small cairns leading left (~ Southeast?) across a series of grassy benches. You can also exit the South Gully up higher, adding more difficult, but still fun terrain to your climb.
Traverse towards a prominent gully directly beneath the upper difficulties of Crestone Needle. When you reach the gully, ascend it on broken Class 3 terrain. Near the top, you will see a prominent tower known as the Black Gendarme. Cut hard right about 100 feet from the ridge crest and ascend a shallow dihedral/face system (difficult Class 3).
At this point, you can choose to climb a Class 3 face or go through a natural slot and traverse an airy ledge system. Both are fun and meet up in a wide class 3 gully with cool rock towers. Ascend this gully and make another slabby traverse under the intimidating summit pitch of Crestone Needle. Climb a ramp to a small ledge below the steep summit pitch.
This summit pitch is the route's crux; a steep and airy 100 foot Class 4 headwall with great holds. It is the best pitch of Class 4 I've ever done, and it tops out just below the summit.
The traverse can also be done from Needle to Peak (and is done regularly), but I personally recommend Peak to Needle for the following reasons:
- If going from Needle to Peak, you either have to make a tricky downclimb of the crux or (more commonly) rappel. This decreases the enjoyment of the climb.
- The descent off of Crestone Needle is shorter than that off the Peak.
- The route finding is a little easier going from Peak to Needle.
There are various ways to get to the summit of Crestone Peak, including the South Face (easy Class 3), the NW couloir (Class 3, often loose and ice filled), and the North Buttress (classic Class 4).
The recommended descent off the Needle is the South Face, a Class 3 scramble and a good climb all by itself. 14ers.com
has great route descriptions for both the South Face routes on both peaks.
Most people solo this route, but there is a great deal of exposure. A light alpine rack and rope may be useful for some parties. A helmet is a good idea.
Spring bivouac between the Peak and Needle, on the...
Enjoying the view after a long day traversing.
George Wilkey topping out on the 4th class pitch j...
Looking down from atop the 4th class pitch.
Climbers on the class 4 pitch. More like low class...
Bryan Hendrick ascending the North Ridge of Cresto...
Bill Bjornstad leading the North Ridge of Crestone...
Looking down from about halfway up the crux.
The steepness at the crux.
A look back at Crestone Peak from near the top of ...
Looking back at the easy first part of the travers...
Crestone Needle. The summit pitch is visible as th...
By Hoag Hoag
From: Littleton, CO
Sep 15, 2009
We saw a middle aged man and woman on the top of the Needle shortly after they had finished the Traverse on 09.12.2009. They did not follow us on the descent, because they thought we were going in the wrong direction. We did not see them again for the rest of the trip. In the middle our descent a pretty bad snow storm rolled in. We are worried about whether or not the couple made it out OK.
Please respond to this comment if you know whether or not these people made it out OK.
By Ernest Port
Sep 2, 2013
Don't be fooled! At the base of the black gendarme, the move to get up into the slot before the airy traverse is NOT hard Class 3 or 4...it IS a short 5.2 move up onto a ledge. The above description is inaccurate on this section of the traverse IMO. I was there yesterday and knew what was required from reading a good trip report, fully prepared for this section...it's fairly graded by others as well at 5.2ish. My point is: realize getting up into the gully requires a committing climbing move and should not be taken lightly. If you don't climb much, yet think you're capable just because you're a good mountaineer, think again. Most folks who climb a lot might think this move is pretty casual (I did), but my younger friend, who doesn't climb couldn't figure it out until after 4 tries and my encouragement. The position here is near the ridge and not an easy escape...just sayin'.
By george wilkey
From: travelers rest sc
Nov 8, 2013
I agree. I did the route in 2010 and I know the move you are talking about. In fact, it had a short piece of fixed rope when I did it, but its only one or two moves, and I don't recall the consequences for blowing it being all that bad.
I will also say that the so called "class 4 pitch" would be low class 5 anywhere else. It's steeper than the standard route on either the 1st, 2nd, or Third Flatirons, and the consequences for a fall would be fatal. There are also a couple of loose holds on it.
By Ryan Marsters
Jul 23, 2014
Fun route. 4th class, including the headwall. Relatively sustained and exposed 4th class by CO 14er standards, but the moves are still only 4th. The Black Gendarme step is occasionally missed by parties doing an airy traverse a bit lower on the S side.