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Crescent Moon 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Artz, Stanley Todd, 1985
Page Views: 2,063
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on May 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Entering the widest section.

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Climb the widening, arching crack located just downstream of the Honeymooners Ladders. A few off-width moves mixed with some "arete" climbing, will need it all.


Take some big gear. I took a 4 and 5 and used both of them. Wouldn't have minded another 5, so I didn't have to walk it up so far. Rings at the top.

Photos of Crescent Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Knee pads always come in handy on the wide cracks,...
Knee pads always come in handy on the wide cracks,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the middle of the Crescent Moon.  We ...
Getting into the middle of the Crescent Moon. We ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting Crescent Moon
Starting Crescent Moon
Rock Climbing Photo: Canadian fire fighter Dave Brown has a thing for o...
Canadian fire fighter Dave Brown has a thing for o...
Rock Climbing Photo: It's wide.
It's wide.

Comments on Crescent Moon Add Comment
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By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
May 27, 2008

After leading this route and running it way out, my wife says "I was more nervous watching you lead this, than some 11's."
By mbuntaine
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

This is a great climb, but unless you have a #5, it can be pretty scary at the top. The horizontals that can be used for smaller gear run out about 30 feet below the anchors. Up to that point, it protects reasonably well with a rack to 3"
By justin Jakimiak
From: Plainwell, MI
Nov 5, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I wouldnt attempt this route unless you have at least doubles on #4, #4.5, #5 Camalots. it is possible to stitch it up tighter than a $1200 Armani suit but it takes some huge gear, i only found 2 horizontal placements, as amazing an experience as this climb was, it was a wreckless choice for my third trad lead in retrospect.
bring big gear and enjoy :)
By Alan Howell
Apr 26, 2012

OLD SCHOOL 5.7 CLASSIC! You'll feel like you're dragging the kitchen sink behind you considering the gear it takes to make it safe, but it does gear up. Bring a few mid to small cams, and look for couple trick tri-cams if you're so inclined. For those looking to dial in their off-width and chicken wing technique, this is a great choice. If your technique is off its going to feel a bit more like a bar fight than a classic route, but once you get dialed in, its quite the adventure.
By Matt Thomas
Nov 3, 2015

Great climb. I thought all the horizontal placements were pretty bad. If leading this again, I would take only a #3, two or three #4s, and two #5s. On lead 30' above your last pro it's comforting to wedge yourself in the crack but climbs easier if you stay on the edge.

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