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Crescent Moon 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Black
Page Views: 219
Submitted By: KipHenrie on Nov 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Bolting the route.


This starts vertical and slowly starts to overhang to a tricky sequential roof. The roof is the crux with bumping crimps. This climb requires focused power. No rests but it's short.


6th climb from the right. In this area climbers have chalked in the rating below the climb.


Bolts to chains

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By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Sep 8, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The crux of this climb is clipping the last bolt. The best way to get the last bolt is to climb past the bolt and crimps to a relatively solid hold.
By Darren Knezek
Sep 28, 2010

FA: Chris Black
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 4, 2012

As of 6/12, the bolt below the crux is pulling out. Use caution! The hanger is a half inch away from the wall and the stud wiggles.
By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 5, 2012

Ditto for the above...I took several whips at the crux, and noticed only during cleaning that the bolt is coming out. Glad it stayed in. Fun route otherwise.
By dnoB ekiM
Jun 18, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

There are quite a few spinners at the pipeline. Most are clearly still bomber and the spin could be fixed with a slight hammer tap and a light tightening (but are not dangerous as is). However, I think the bolt before the crux on this route could actually need replacing. It's in some softer matrix, sticks out about 1/4-1/2 inch and the hole is slightly eroded near the edge. The bolt is a 2.25 inch by 3/8" powers.
By dnoB ekiM
Jun 24, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The bolt discussed above has been replaced with a stainless bolt provided by the ASCA. Please remember to donate to the ASCA.

The old bolt came out very easily and the old hole was reused/ redrilled for the new bolt.

Rock Climbing Photo: Crescent Moon
Crescent Moon

Rock Climbing Photo: New

Rock Climbing Photo: Old
By Chris Horton
From: Tucson AZ
Jun 24, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Thank you! A couple people in our group whipped on that thing last week and knew we were taking our life in our hands by doing so.

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