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Crescent Cracks 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3 [details]
FA: Dellinges
Page Views: 45
Submitted By: Bryan Lang on Jan 25, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: topo

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

one pitch very long. The first crack also goes free at 5.11. This climb follows the very prominent and sweeping cracks from a very nice ledge. Climb up following pro bolts to the main crack. Continued right to near the end where bolts lead up to the second crack. Follow this crack to its end where bolts, tie offs, knife blades and some free will lead you to the anchor. We have been able to climb free the entire first crack, so an anchor has been established. This also allows for an excellent top rope. Some years the cracks are used competitively by both bats and swallows. It can become very dirty. Best climbed free during early spring or late fall. Bring a brush, and big cams, two each of 4”, 3.5”, 3”, 2”, and some small stuff as the crack will narrow to a #1 TCU at the belay. There is no ledge.

Location 

Left of the DZ Arete, directly behind Silly Pinnacle

Protection 

two each of 4”, 3.5”, 3”, 2”, and some small stuff as the crack will narrow to a #1 TCU at the belay


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