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Crescent Crack Buttress
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Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 
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Crescent Crack Direct Variation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,106
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 24, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (121)
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Alexis Crellin on the onsight of Crescent Crack Di...

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The direct variation to Crescent Crack is a good way to finish the topout of Crescent Crack, or as an approach to the bolted slab, the Final Link (5.9). Instead of traversing down and right at the sloping shelf on top of pitch two, continue up the dihedral (thin, 5.9). Pass a piton on the left, then work up through an awkward section to a ledge. From here, Final Link works left with a hard mantle and a bolt, or finish by heading right and up.


Standard Rack

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Rock Climbing Photo: Sturgis '10
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 25, 2017
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 17, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Very awkward climbing on this finish. Definitely a better finish than the Crescent Crack sloping ramp exit.
By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
Oct 12, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The exit on this pitch can be tricky, and rope drag a real problem if the belay is not done correctly. Better to pull the move up onto the slab and belay from the bolt anchor at the base of Final Link, then either finish with that pitch (a great way to do the whole C.C. experience) or rappell back down to the base of the ramp exit.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Sep 21, 2006

Excellent variation! Nice 5.9 angling crack with some delicate footwork, to a flaring, exposed feeling chimney. The finish around the corner to the right makes it somewhat less enjoyable. But adding the Final Link 5.9 slab finish, and a trip up the Coffin, makes this one of my favorite outings in the canyon! We need a name for the "Crescent-Direct/Final Link/Coffin" link up. Unbroken Chain? C.C.D.F.L.C?
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 24, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

So much better than the normal finish!!
The direct variation completely redeems the grunt through the offwidth. Fun moves in the dihedral with well spaced bomber holds and slick feet. The pro is there but do you want to hang there placing a cam? Going up the horn looks harder than it really is but still feels very airy.
If you want to make the mantel on the slab more enjoyable (ie not involving heinous rope drag pulling your ass down) clip your last pieces below the horn and the bolts with long runners and get to the anchors of the Final Link, it's worth it.
By Aimee Bates
Jun 20, 2009

This climb humbled me.... a few tricky moves that made me swear. The offwidth was fun.
Edit: Ditto what Stan said!
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 23, 2009

Definitely do the slab finish and make sure you have enough time for a lap on the Coffin since you rap right to it! 3 classic pitches offering just about everything. A 1 camalot might come in handy for the final chimney.
By tanner jones
Jun 13, 2012

+1 stan
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 16, 2012

Bring lots of finger-sized pieces. But a #3 is handy for the flare as well.
By garyjutah Jones
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
Nov 15, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awkward climbing through the corner - worth it to get to the giant flake and Final Link (5.9).
By greyson
From: SLC, UT
Mar 15, 2017

Wondering if it would be possible to link this pitch with the second pitch (off width pitch) of crescent crack. I have a 70m rope and it seemed like it might be a little short.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Mar 15, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Base of the OW to base of the Final Link works fine with a 70. You'll be out of sight of the belay the whole time with lots of rope out in the crux traverse, make sure you're solid or you could log more air time than you care for.
By Alex Temus
From: Small Town, USA
Aug 25, 2017

What a cool route! A little bit of everything here if you do the full climb to the bottom of Final Link (Which seems like the only logical way to do the route).
Really though, funky off-width, something resembling the top, traversing section of Mexican crack, a short chimney, a couple bolts on the face. Great route!

Also - can we agree to change the route length to something in the ballpark of 130ft? That's my best guess.

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