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The Tower Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T 
Arrowhead TR 
Back to the Gym TR 
Back to the Wall T 
Crefeld Crank TR 
Dead Tree Dihedral TR 
Ex-traction Slab TR 
In & Out T,TR 
Johnson Route T,TR 
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 
Manticore Face TR 
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 
No Rest for the Wicked TR 
Ogre Arete T,TR 
Rachel's Crack T,TR 
Red Knob, The T,TR 
Rock Romancer TR 
Rossinator, The TR 
Tower Wall Direct T 
Unrest of the Witches TR 

Crefeld Crank 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: TR Jon Crefeld 2015
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: kenr on Jul 13, 2015

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Description 

Interesting lower sequence with a strenuous crux move. Unfortunately the crux is a bit contrived and the climbing above it is all much easier.

Named in honor of the climber whose vision and drive and persistance opened Powerlinez climbing for so many of us.

Start in the center of the slab face, up a small right-facing corner. Continue up the center, trending a bit right, then step left under the overhang (or try going more directly up to left side of overhang).

Pull the overhang _without_ using the left edge of the nose or the crack just left of it (which is the vertical crack of the right-side version of the Ex-Traction route).

variation: If use the left edge or crack left of it, the overhang goes more like 5.9

If do not just lower off after working the crux ...
Go up a a bit, then right to the arete, and up that a little. Then up the center of the face, with some small flake holds facing right. Finish up the right side of the darker rocks at top. (same finish as Back to the Gym ). A little less easy is the
Ex-traction finish up the center of the darker top rocks.

Location 

The center of the slab face to the Left of the Shark's Tooth detached flake and to the Right of the crack system (of Ex-Traction) which is 15 feet to the left of the Shark's Tooth.
See on Overview of routes Photo.

Protection 

Top-rope set up requires long static line for top anchor, and likely requires rappelling down to get both ends of the rops to the bottom without getting stuck in trees or protruding rocks.
Protection for Trad lead is unknown and likely inadequate.


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By kenr
Oct 9, 2015

Jon C didn't name the climb, I did. Afterward I failed to complete the crux move clean on different days in different months (without Jon around to coach me). But I felt confident that a stronger climber would send it, so I put it up on here MP.

So another month later, Jon C showed up and "cranked" it clean (with me watching) today. Afterward I tried, and even with Jon's example and hints, I still didn't get it. I have the excuse that I'm not fully recovered from a shoulder injury. Anyway I learned from Jon an improvement in my sequence so I'll have a better chance to get it next time.